Paul Gerber:
|
You'd have to be a dwarf.....
|
Talking about cars you would call it "tuning" or "souped up." In the world of watches it isn't so widespread yet,
but with the watch whose rearrangement Paul Gerber has just finished, a new trend might evolve.
|
of Timm Delfs
|
Paul Gerber would give a fortune if he could just turn tiny and
creep into his watch to find out if there might be just a little more
space inside to enrich the movement by one more function. "His"
watch in truth belongs to a collector – who doesn't
want to be named here of course – who just can't be satisfied by
the fact of being the owner of the most complicated wristwatch
in the world. He needs to know that the distance to possible
competing watches is big enough to discourage any thought of ever
catching
up. Paul Gerber in Zürich is the watchmaker who has been making
this watch more and more complicated throughout the past few years.
The history of this extraordinary watch
doesn't begin a few years ago as one is inclined to think, but in 1892
in
the Vallée du Joux. Louis-Elisée Piguet from Le Brassus was
renowned for his very complicated and beautifully executed
timekeepers. His company, founded in 1858, was continued by his
children and is known as "Frédéric Piguet SA"
nowadays. However, he doesn't share any family ties with
Edward-Auguste Piguet, who in 1875 founded Audemars Piguet together with
Jules-Louis Audemars. Towards the end of the century the master
watchmaker accomplished three pocket watches with minute repeater and
"grande et petite sonnerie" on two chimes. Considering the
mechanisms inside he hadn't allowed very large dimensions: the
movement measured only 32 millimeters or 14 lines across. It was 8
millimeters thick.
|
Whereas two of the pocket watches are missing today, the third one
unexpectedly surfaced in 1992 when Francesco (aka Franck) Muller
presented it as the "world's most complicated wristwatch" at the
Basel fair. The undoubtedly talented watchmaker who, at that
time, still presented himself humbly, had bought the watch and
modified its movement to achieve a world record with it. He added a
perpetual calendar with phases of the moon, as well as a 24-hour
hand for travelers, to the complications. As an extra, a thermometer
was added whose retrograde hand, is driven by a bimetallic strip.
Then he fitted the mechanism into a platinum wristwatch case. The
module for the calendar made
|
the movement slightly thicker but left the diameter unaltered.
The watch was bought by a collector who liked Franck Muller's
initial idea of adding extra complications to the movement so much that
he came to the conviction that there must be a possibility to add
even more. In his search for someone who possessed the genius to
incorporate further complications, into the already tight space
inside the movement, he hit upon Paul Gerber. A tourbillon, the
watchmaker's pièce de résistance, that's what he wanted, a flying
one, at that. "I had never built one before",
Paul Gerber remarks smilingly, thinking back, "but thanks to my
experience in miniaturization I took the challenge."
|
|
Creeping into the watch is unfortunately not possible: some centimeters of distance remain always to the
movement to the displeasure of the artist.
|
|
|
The 14-lines repeating movement of
Louis-Elisée Piguet was an incredible complicated mechanism already
in the year 1892. More than 100 years later it has been reshaped by
several master watch making craftsmen and has been fitted with ever
new complications. The creators have immortalized themselves by
engraving their names inside the movement and it is significant how the
added modifications have meanwhile superimposed the names mutually.
|
|
|
|
|
|
The fact of being supported from one side only makes the flying
tourbillon seem detached from the rest of the movement. The view of
the delicate mechanism isn't obstructed by any bridge or cock. What
was most nerve-wracking to Paul Gerber was the fact that for the
incorporation the bottom plate had to be modified. "One little
mistake while machining and the plate would have been gone for good,
and with it the whole watch."
Even though Paul Gerber planned and tried the tourbillon and its
position on the computer he took no risk and built an enlarged model
to exclude errors right from the beginning. As the owner had
wished, the original compensating balance wheel and its Breguet
hairspring
were used. Here, too, utmost care had to be taken. The tourbillon's
cage Paul Gerber constructed for the movement leaves maximum sight
for the balance wheel by holding its upper bearing with the index
by two spokes only. Despite the unilateral support made from one single
piece, the tourbillon is perfectly balanced.
|
|
Until the small lever shown here (enlarged 20 times) had its final form, Gerber had to try out several versions.
|
Gerber's masterpiece, which was presented at the "Basel 1995,"
aroused further wishes in his customer. "Wasn't there a
possibility to add a chronograph mechanism", he wanted to know. And
that's how the watch found its way onto Paul Gerber's table once
more. "To be honest, next to all my other projects and orders I
don't really have the time for it, but the temptation is just too
big," the silent but humorous man has to admit.
He was not content with a simple chronograph mechanism and,
anticipating his customer, added a rattrapante with fly-back and a
jumping
minute counter. Additionally, he equipped the two mainsprings for
the movement and the striking mechanism with a power reserve indication.
All this, however, wouldn't have been possible without creating a
little more space: for the two extra seconds hands from the center, a
bridge had to be added, which made the movement only 2.1 mm
thicker. This was the right occasion for a new case back with a sapphire
glass
in whose platinum ring engravings show the names of the three
watchmakers involved in the making of the movement.
|
Somewhere around this point the wish must have arisen in Paul
Gerber to be able to see the movement from an insect's perspective. For
the
chronograph a column wheel and the levers had to be inserted, which
are responsible for the functions of start, stop, reset and fly-back,
operated by the pushers, and the rattrapante, operated by the
button in the middle of the crown. "The levers have the most adventurous
shapes because the distance from the pushers to the column-wheel
and the reset-hearts could only be bridged with deviations," Paul Gerber
laughs whilst he places a selection of tiny levers on the table
that didn't fulfill their function because they were either too weak or
touched
somewhere.
To operate the pincers that stop the rattrapante-hand at
command, Gerber devised an elegant solution in the form of a hexagonal
wheel that
looks like a nut. The insides of the pincers press against its
sides and are opened as the wheel turns by a twelfth of a circle.
|
A further benchmark presented itself in the making of the two tiny
tubes that were necessary to slide the seconds’ hand and the
rattrapante hand through the middle axis of the minute hand. "Since
tubes with the necessary diameter and thickness were not available,
I had to turn them myself on the lathe. You can hardly imagine how
long I experimented until I had drilled my first straight hole through
one
of them!" Now the watch is lying on the table only waiting for the
casemaker to fit the pushers in the right places. Then the owner will
be able to collect it, please himself with the new gadgets and
marvel at the spectacle beneath the transparent back, before new wishes
arise.
The question remains: What is there that hasn't been incorporated
yet?
|
The two spring houses for the movement and the chimes have power reserve indications of their own.
|
|
|
The Person: Paul Gerber
|
Paul Gerber reflects the one thing one normally expects from a
watchmaker: he is calmness personified. The 51-year old from Bern
has been living in Albisrieden near Zurich since 1976 where he
installed a small workshop in the cellar of his house in a green area.
"Laboratory" would probably be the better term because despite the
scarceness of space, meticulous cleanliness and order are
imperative. No sign of facings are to be seen on the floor, as is
the custom in other workshops. Paul Gerber immediately puts on his
white frock as he enters the room, which by the architect had been
intended for the washing machine.
Next door is the alchemist's room, this is where gold and
rhodium plating is done. And, because inside a watch, room is scarce,
watchmakers usually don't need much of it either. So it's no wonder
that apart from Paul Gerber there are two more people working in the
lab. His apprentice, Simone Hirzel, is in her third year at the
watchmaker's school in Solothurn. She and the watchmaker, Martin
Schiess,
help him to accomplish the orders that should not be forgotten next
to the "Louis-Elisée-Piguet." Gerber's wife, Ruth,
looks after the office work. It was for her that he left his
hometown of Bern and moved to Zurich. Where, in 1976, he took over a
watch
shop. After a while the learned watchmaker didn't find satisfaction
behind the shop counter.
|
|
It was the inside of the watch that was his passion. Since he
didn't fancy working as an employee, Gerber decided to become
self-employed.
He was already able to offer exclusivity: in 1977 he had started to
construct miniature pendulum clocks. In 1989, the year in which he
joined
the AHCI, the Academy of independent watchmakers, one of his
constructions even made it into the Guinness Book Of World Records. The
miniature
clockwork, of the world's smallest wood-geared clock that is
weight-driven, features a cow's tail pendulum in front of the dial and a
verge
escapement. It measures a mere 2.2 centimeters in height. As a gag,
Gerber built in two eyes that stare out of the watchcase and move once
in
a minute. The wooden miniatures still belong to Gerber's economic
basis, as one can easily see looking at a wall where half a dozen
mini-pendulums are swinging nervously in time.
Thanks to a "pendulette mystérieuse" that he constructed with and for Gerd Dorschfeld, he achieved recognition with
Fabergé, the manufacturer, for whom he has been constructing complicated desk clocks with musical boxes since 1996.
One year later he integrated a clearly audible alarm mechanism
into a 7750 ETA Valjoux movement for Fortis, in Grenchen, without making
the watch much bigger.
|
|
|
For the Mystérieuse of Gerd Dorschfeldt, Gerber has created an 8-days movement which was strong enough to turn the sapphire
glass disks which were fixed at the periphery only.
|
But, isn't there a brand "Paul Gerber?" Of course there is: in 1996
the master watchmaker presented two novelties under his own
name in Basel: a pendulette (desk-clock) with a movement
constructed and manufactured by himself and a wristwatch featuring a
large
retrograde seconds-indication at six 'o clock. The unusual display,
whose function might be compared a little provocatively to a windscreen
wiper, moves, within a minute, over the segment of a circle only to
fly back immediately and begin its way anew. The module is built onto a
hand-winding Peseux caliber 7001 and is integrated elegantly into
the lower part of the movement-ring. In 1999 Paul Gerber launched the
"Retro Twin" which is equipped with an automatic winder. He wasn't
content with a simple oscillating mass, so he incorporated two
of them: they have ball bearings and are coupled virtually
friction-free by an intermediate wheel. Of course Paul Gerber owes the
know-how
for building it to his first modification of the
"Louis-Elisée-Piguet."
|
In order to prevent the masses from touching each other, and still
have them as big as possible, Paul Gerber calculated their profile with
the computer. The watches differ only in the execution of their
dials. Whereas the Retro features a white dial in enamel optics, the
Retro
Twin's is guilloché and rhodium-plated. In the same year Gerber
topped his line with a refined version of his Pendulette. It now
features a large flying tourbillon.
|
|
|
The two synchronously swinging automatic winder oscillating masses and the retrograde hand for the seconds - the
constructions of Paul Gerber almost always have a look of playful effortlessness.
|
|